Climbing plants are for many wild plants that only have to be cut constantly and occupy and attack walls of the house.
Even with fewer nutrients, many of them are satisfied and are therefore extremely undemanding. Like perennials, annual summer flowers or vegetables, climbing plants can be found in beds, in raised beds, tubs or pots.
Hobby gardeners and professionals know, however, that vine plants are real all-round talents and can perform many useful functions in the home and garden.
Subdivision of garden spaces
Natural privacy protection in the garden and thus an addition to hedge plants
Reduce noise pollution from outside
Green bored and bare walls
Serve the fence greening
Can smell and exude lovely scents
Beautify entrance areas
Some can even be harvested
There are a number of things you should keep in mind for them to thrive.
Adapt climbing plants to the area of application
To ensure that the crops meet your needs in every respect, make sure when selecting that the species fit the respective area of application.
First of all, you have to decide whether the climbing plants should be flowering or evergreen. The latter delight you with their foliage all year round, while most flowering climbing plants shed their leaves in autumn or pull their shoots into the ground. Depending on the type and variety, they excel in spring, summer or autumn by pampering you with a lavish bloom and often also with a bewitching fragrance. So you can enjoy it with all your senses.
Use flowering and ever-flowering climbing plants as room dividers
You have probably already heard that gardens should be divided into rooms so that they look interesting. After all, the visitor to your garden is curious to see what surprises await him behind the next hedge, the lush shrub or behind the densely planted perennial borders.
Wherever you do not have space for the aforementioned “room dividers” on your property, trellis plants can be the better alternative. Their root system spreads less underground and at least in their latitude growth they are discreetly restrained.
If necessary, you can also keep most climbing shrubs within their limits by cutting them back to the desired size.
For this reason, climbing plants that bloom are a good way to limit those seats that are mainly used in the warm season, such as the terrace, the balcony or your favorite seat that you like to use for reading.
The evergreen climbing plants are used where you want to be protected from prying eyes all year round or where you value an attractive appearance.
You can stylishly green an unsightly shed or a house wall and also enjoy the great nature. At the same time, this offers two major advantages: you save energy because the greening is insulating and you provide useful insects and wild birds with food and shelter. Regardless of which variant you choose to delimit the play corner of your little one, be sure to choose non-toxic climbing plants.
For a great look in your garden, on the terrace or balcony, you should choose exactly these flowering climbing plants. Our recommendations:
Everyone knows hydrangeas for domestic gardens, because they are these lush flowering ornamental shrubs for the garden , which make every garden appear in bloom in different colors. The climbing hydrangea is a special genus that, thanks to its adhesive roots, does not require any climbing aid and can grow up to 15m high. It is hardy, smells sweet and loves a humus-rich soil.
Clematis / Clematis
A very well known and popular climbing plant is the Clemantis in the genus Alpina or Montana. They are particularly robust, strong and flower in spring. But you absolutely need a climbing aid and it is recommended a location that is not too hot, the pot in the shade and the branches in the sun. If you don’t get the feet of the clematis in the shade, you can choose a suitable ground cover to protect your roots from direct sunlight.
If you have a trellis or a pergola, you can also plant climbing roses and bring your own rose magic into the garden. Romantic seating on or under the climbing and climbing rose sea is a dream for the senses. Anyone who has ever smelled a rose can imagine how sensationally beautiful it is to sit in a sea of roses and just enjoy it.
The wisteria (wisteria) comes from Asia and is still found in numerous Japanese gardens. It grows quickly, full of flowers and extremely vigorous. Its blue flowers smell wonderful and it makes a lot of things. A climbing aid is strongly recommended at this point, otherwise the masonry can be attacked. This plant is also poisonous.
Campsis (climbing trumpet)
Another blooming climbing plant is the so-called climbing trumpet, which comes in the flower colors yellow, red and orange and is ideal as a facade greening, parts of a vertical garden and garden room divider . It has the most impressive flowers of all climbing plants. But it is not winter hardy and needs adequate protection in our colder months. It has to be watered a lot, but hardly fertilized. The better the location, the better this climbing plant grows.
Note the demands of the climbers on the habitat
In order for the climbers to thrive, they need the right location. Therefore, check in advance which conditions exist on your property.
Climbing plants that are suitable for shade, such as ivy, pipe winds or climbing hydrangeas, get along best on the north wall because the sun’s rays rarely get there. The situation is different with those types of wall climbers that are intended for the sun. They include, for example, the vines , wisteria and acebias as well as the climbing roses, which are available in countless color variations. Even the burning midday heat on the south side of your property cannot harm you.
In addition, there are plenty of plants available for the west and east sides that feel particularly comfortable in partially shaded places and immediately climb up / climb up. They include the honeysuckle, the young vine, the clematis and the kiwi.
Exotics like the passion flower and the bougainville can also be accommodated here. With regard to the demands on the soil, these specimens should find ideal conditions to thrive and, if necessary, to bloom. Match the needs to the circumstances on your property.
Many plants capable of climbing require a rich, well-drained soil. The need for nutrients can be particularly high during the flowering period. If the subsoil of your property cannot keep up, you have to upgrade it. You can find out how in the following section.
Rank habits for house walls, walls and fences
Many types of climbing plants such as
the ivy and
the climbing hydrangea
form adhesive roots with which they can hold on to walls, walls or fences. The specialist speaks of the “root climbers”, who can of course also disguise unattractive garden walls perfectly .
In theory, you do not need to provide a climbing aid for these plants like a trellis. However, you should keep in mind that the adhesive roots of some species are so strong that they can break through walls and break plaster from the walls (such as the wisteria).
To avoid this, as a precaution, attach stable trellises at a distance of about ten centimeters. Check the stability of these annually and improve them if necessary.
Other creepers like the Clematis are unable to climb facades by themselves. They hold on to the trellises with the petioles or tendrils of their shoot axes, which you have to make available to them. Alternatively, you can offer them bars, grids, or bars. The best example of this is the runner bean, which with its dense foliage can also be used to separate garden areas or to hide behind them.
You have to tie some climbing plants to the scaffolding, such as the blackberry. You should also use climbing wire or clips to hold the climbing roses on the trellises. Their flower umbels become so heavy in heavy rain that the shoots would break off.
Plant, maintain and build up climbing plants properly
The best planting time for all perennial climbing plants is spring or early autumn. The annual species, however, are brought into the earth in late spring. An exception are the container plants, which can be planted all year round as long as the soil is frost-free.
You should not plant your climbing plants directly on house walls, since the subsoil is particularly dry there. For this reason, keep a distance of at least 30 centimeters from the wall and lift the planting hole at a slight angle. This must be large enough to comfortably accommodate the root system of the nude roots or the root ball of the container plant.
A planting depth of about 60 centimeters has proven itself for the climbing wine.
The wisteria is set at about the same depth. Although the clematis has a smaller root ball, it should also be planted deep in the ground so that it will later sprout generously.
Climbing roses should be covered with soil so that the plant does not freeze to death in winter. If several climbing plants are to stand side by side on a bed or near a facade, a distance between the plants of at least 35 centimeters must be maintained, regardless of the type. This is important so that the supply of nutrients and water is constantly available and so that the plants dry faster after rain.
So that there is no waterlogging on a loamy subsoil, it is advisable to insert a drainage made of clay granulate or grit into the planting hole. Improve a too permeable sandy soil with compost. Then you can use them with a clear conscience.
Fill the plant hole with excavated soil and press it firmly so that the roots get an earth fault. Water your climbing plant well. Make sure that the soil remains evenly moist for the following days. Water them thoroughly during the growing season when the soil is dry.
Climbing plants for rose arches, archways and arcades
Climbing plants in particular are predestined for overgrowing rose arches and archways in gardens, even meter-long passages like a plant tunnel. Such constructs have always been part of the design elements for beautiful gardens and gardens and are increasingly found in private gardens as well.
Pergolas, for example, can be wonderfully realized in medium to large gardens by simply placing several rose arches one behind the other and having them overgrown. They consist of either stone, wood or wire / metal mesh.
No matter what should be thanked now, almost all climbing plants need a certain degree of fixation, at least if the bow is not enough. An additional wire mesh or boards and branched branches are suitable for this.
The best climbing plants are of course also sought for this purpose, because the result is that rose arches and archways should be completely overgrown and opaque so that the basic framework is no longer visible.
The best for this are climbing roses or rambler roses, the shoots of which can also be wonderfully wrapped manually around the framework. The cherry rose or the perennial blue are particularly suitable due to their limited height. They also bloom several times a year.
In order to achieve a certain tightness and not stand there with the bare grid in winter, it is also recommended to plant a growth partner. This can be, for example, evergreen ivy, which grows very well, quickly closes bald spots in decorative arches and archways and is considered an ideal partner. Forest grapes can also be planted well in combination with roses due to the different flowering times.
Care for climbing plants in tubs and pots
If your climbing plant is in a pot or in a bucket, water it every day, in the hot periods in the morning and in the evening. Don’t forget to fertilize, most climbing plants have a high nutrient requirement. Organic fertilizers such as horn shavings or nettle slurry are suitable for this .
You can also use long-term inorganic fertilizers. For climbing plants that you want to harvest, stop fertilizing about four weeks before harvest. This will prevent an excessive amount of nitrate in the fruit. This could harm your health. Find out in advance whether your climbing plants are frost-hardy.
If so, you can leave them outdoors all year round. In the first three years, treat yourself to winter protection made from pine twigs, leaves or straw. If your climbing plants cannot tolerate frost, you have two options. You can put smaller specimens in buckets and bring them into the house before the first night frosts. If the trellis is portable, take it with you and attach it to the winter quarters. Otherwise you need a makeshift alternative.
Some climbing plants can be cut back in autumn so that they only need a few sticks to support them during the winter months. Place the planter in a cool place. Most climbers don’t like the warm living room.
Water more economically from September and stop fertilizing entirely. The cooler the plant is, the less water it needs. Some species that feed their shoots during the winter months can even hibernate in the basement. Check the potted plants regularly for pests and diseases. Intervene early so that they do not spread. Collect the pests and cut off the affected plant parts.
If this is not enough, use an ecologically harmless insecticide or a remedy for the specific disease. Immediately collect fallen leaves from the earth, as they form a breeding ground for germs. As soon as night frosts can no longer be expected in the coming year, you can take the climbing plants outdoors again.
If your climbing plants are sensitive to frost, but due to their size must remain outdoors, pack them well so that they can survive the winter. Place a thick layer of dry leaves around the main shoots on the ground, which you can use to protect against blowing away with fir twigs or wire mesh. On finished plants, wrap the finishing areas with fleece or jute sacks and tie the winter protection tightly. You should water green climbing plants even in winter.