There is hardly a garden without a lawn and, accordingly, lawns are a not inconsiderable part of a garden. So if you do garden design, you cannot ignore your lawn or leave it outside because it gives it a good portion of attractiveness. So that every year it is fresh green, well-groomed and weed-free, lawn care is such an important element in a gardener’s repertoire.
There are all sorts of theories and mysteries surrounding the perfect lawn, most of which aim to sell any equipment, special fertilizers or anything else. We therefore want to provide a helpful, free and comprehensive lawn care guide that takes up every type and form of lawn care and lawn maintenance and contains practical tips that everyone can try out at home.
Unfortunately, in reality, the lawn in most gardens looks pretty frightening as well as scruffy. It is not that difficult to own and keep a beautiful green and handsome lawn.
This ultimate lawn guide is for you if you want to improve or optimize your current state of lawn, or if your lawn plants have the following problems:
Weeds in the lawn
Daisies / dandelions occur
Clover and moss gain the upper hand
First of all: The optimal and really perfect lawn, such as in the Wembley Stadium, for example, or on professional golf courses, can only be obtained in the long term from professionals who find an optimized and artificial floor. All of these areas have lawn heating, roofing and basically do not know winter. They are looked after around the clock. Not feasible for private turf. But it is still very possible to get a lawn with the following properties:
Juicy and dense
You walk barefoot like on clouds on it
Weed and moss free
The best lawn care tips for a healthy lawn
There are a few basic tips and tricks that form a good basis for an enchanting lawn every year. Regardless of the season, there are always recurring techniques and procedures to take care of and improve the lawn.
Tip 1: Only cut the lawn with a good lawnmower
The first mowing operation usually begins in March and ends with the last cut in October. It is important to cut off only the tips of the grass to stimulate growth.
With the second mowing operation, you can shorten your lawn area to approx. 4 cm. Decorative lawn even to about 3 cm. You should then use your lawn mower once a week – or twice if the impact is strong.
On the technical side, you should also take good care of your lawnmower and ensure sharp blades. Otherwise, lawn seeds can be torn out during the mowing process. This creates unattractive holes in your lawn that cannot be fixed quickly.
There is nothing like a smooth and regular cut. Only high-quality lawn mowers can master this. If you want a top lawn, you also have to have a top mower.
Tip 2: properly blow up and water the lawn
Depending on the external conditions, you may need to water more and sometimes less. Adequate irrigation is also part of maintaining the lawn. This prevents your lawn from drying out and yellow spots forming. Lush green is impossible without water. In dry months, automated smart home irrigation systems , sprinklers, pop-up sprinklers or manual watering with a garden hose are suitable for this . The prerequisite for this, however, is an underground water pipe for garden irrigation .
The basic rule here is: don’t spill, but pad. It is better to do it less once, but once correctly and until small puddles form. This is the only way to give the deeper roots sufficient water.
Avoid irrigation in the midday sun. Because this creates the well-known burning glass effect, so that your lawn can burn under certain circumstances. Similar to how many get a sunburn through the mirroring while bathing. So better in the evening or very early in the morning.
Most hobby gardeners often subconsciously blow up their lawn areas incorrectly and there is considerable potential for optimization here. You can find out more about watering properly under lawn.
Tip 3: fertilize regularly
Anyone who claims that their lawn grows without the addition of fertilizer is lying. The fact is: Your lawn needs nutrients to stay healthy and grow. A deep green can only be guaranteed for one season through nutrient-rich soil, then it must be replenished. For optimal lawn care, you should therefore fertilize the lawn for the first time in April. The second fertilization is best carried out in late summer. One can argue about autumn fertilization, others swear by it.
It has also become a hot topic of discussion today and how and with what to fertilize. Do you want lawn fertilizers without chemicals, in completely natural ways, or do you use a chemical club? There are basically the following options for fertilizing lawns:
Application of iron fertilizer
Fertilize with sheep manure
Fertilize with your own humus
Artificial fertilizer with moss killer
Fertilize with nettle slurry
Scattering blue grain
Mulching when mowing
No matter what you choose, it is recommended to use a spreader if it is now possible with the fertilizer. This way you spread the fertilizer over the entire area at the same time and avoid over-fertilization / under-fertilization.
Therefore, pay attention to the recommendations of the manufacturers. Because even the indispensable nutrients can cause damage in too high a concentration. Since you want to maintain the lawn and do not want to kill, it is important to exercise caution on this point.
The blazing midday sun is also not a good time for fertilizing. A cloudy day with a chance of rain would be ideal. The nutrients are washed into the soil by the water and absorbed by it. If there is no rain, you have to take over this part and water the lawn properly.
The fertilizer helps to protect the lawn from annoying weeds. However, weed growth can still occur due to other factors, such as shadows from tall trees. Monitor the development of your lawn closely so that you can react quickly to possible undesirable developments with the appropriate weed killer.
The choice of fertilizer depends on the actual ideas and preferences. Some gardeners totally reject chemical fertilizers, others use it for simplicity. Artificial fertilizers work, but can also make a lawn dependent. If you do not add fertilizer, it will quickly turn pale in color.
In practice, a viable method is a mix of all of the above variants. Each fertilizer has its own advantages and other nutrients. A seasonal mix can give it the strength it needs. Professionals adjust the administration of lime, iron and other nutrients to the soil properties and the pH value of the soil and thus find an optimum.
Tip 4: Let the lawn breathe
It sounds a bit strange as there would be a lawn lung, but it means that the nutrient intake can be improved. Over time, a rooted layer (lawn felt) of old leaves, dead roots and other biological waste can form, making it difficult for the lawn to breathe and absorb oxygen. If you notice this, you can scarify again before the growing season and aerate.
When airing, the layer above the lawn is only blown away. This process is very careful and can therefore be carried out all year round. When scarifying, however, the ground is combed and the lawn felt is pulled out with vertical knives.
Scarifying is best done after the first mowing and before the first fertilization. Repeat this procedure before the second fertilization in late summer. After all other mowing processes, gentle ventilation is recommended.
Critics of scarifying, on the other hand, argue that if the stitches are too deep, you damage healthy roots and thus actually gain nothing. Both are justified. We recommend trying out what works and what doesn’t in your own garden, because every floor is different.
Tip 5: Manual small jobs such as weeding and reseeding
When verticulating, bald spots can become visible. Especially after the first mowing in spring. In this case, of course, you have to reseed at the appropriate places. Otherwise the unloved weeds will spread there.
Even if many do not want to hear it, but a wonderful lawn is the result of long and intensive work and care. This also includes cutting out isolated weeds such as dandelions, daisies or quills. Moles and ants can also cause considerable damage in the garden and leave holes, all of which must be closed and re-seeded manually.
Dog and cat urine can also quickly leave unsightly yellow spots. One should not rely on the fact that these turn green again by themselves. Here only scraped out and reseed helps.
Otherwise, the approach is always to keep an eye on the garden so that you can react quickly and effectively to unwanted changes. Listen to your lawn and treat it with care, then it will also shine for you in a lush green.
Water and blow up the lawn – but that’s right
When it comes to blowing up the lawn, everyone agrees that this is a sensible measure and anything but a waste of water, but many make serious mistakes when it comes to watering.
Watering too short Watering should not be too short, otherwise roots will form near the surface, making the lawn more susceptible to dry spells. Depending on the water consumption of the pump / sprinkler or sprinkler and the nature of the soil, 20 minutes – 1 hour can be enough.
Depending on the weather, place your sprinkler in one place every 4-7 days for at least 20 minutes. Of course, you can also water your lawn by hand. However, this can quickly become very tiring and time-consuming for larger areas.
Mistake 2: Watering at the wrong time
The best time to blow up the lawn is early in the morning, before the sun comes out, or alternatively in the evening when the sun has set or is no longer strong. Anyone who says that they would rather enjoy their well-deserved beer in the evening and have to be in bed or work early in the morning knows at the latest that a perfect lawn requires proper work and consistent action.
If you don’t have time for this, you should take a look at computer-controlled irrigation systems and upgrade your garden towards the Smart Garden , so that this process also works ideally based on the weather and rain station.
Mistake 3: Water at wrong temperatures
It’s dry, a monkey heat and it’s time to let the lawn cool down, right? Quite wrong, because they should never blow up in high heat and strong sunlight. Due to the reflection of the water on the blades of grass, the lawn burns faster than you can see.
In frost and cold temperatures, there is no need to water, because in winter every lawn is in hibernation. It only begins to grow again at around 10-13 degrees.
Mistake 4: Water with the wrong water
Yes, water is not just water – this also applies to quality. For example, if you water and blow up the lawn with well water, you should have the pH value and the lime content of the water checked beforehand. If you live in the countryside, you can find very hard groundwater, which means watering the lawn indirectly with every watering and thus changing the pH value of the soil.
Watering with rainwater, on the other hand, means watering with acidic water. As with fertilizers, the mix of both worlds also applies here. Sometimes with rain water, then again with well water, another time with water from the tap.
If you don’t make these mistakes, you’ve done a lot right. We still have a few small tips for lawn irrigation.
Tip 1: It is better to water too much once than twice too little.
Do not spill but pad, which means not only moistening the surface of the lawn but blasting it until small puddles form when walking on the lawn. Then the soil became moist up to 15cm deep and the irrigation process was successful. As an approximate guideline, approx. 15 liters / sqm for sandy soils and 20 liters / sqm for loamy soils .
Tip 2: Install automatic irrigation system
One is not always there, has other things to do, or is on vacation. All of this speaks for an automatic irrigation system including a computer, soil and rain sensors. This ensures that the water is poured at the best time all year round when it is necessary. Even water itself is not wasted, but used optimally.
Permanently remove moss control in spring and moss
Not every lawn is optimally located, has the perfect floor or receives the care that it should actually be given. The result in most cases is excessive moss growth, which slowly but surely displaces the lawn.
Combating moss in spring is the order of the day, but only after the cause has been determined. Because there are good reasons why moss plants spread in the beautiful garden. These are:
Too shady location, for example, under trees or on a hedge.
Too dense, rigid ground conditions
pH not optimal (should be 5 or higher)
Mowed too rarely
Most causes of moss in the lawn can be prevented. Only the location is usually not changeable, so you have to deal with it and make the best of it. Which means: fighting moss or resigning to the meadow. In particular, locations under trees cannot usually be changed easily. But then you have to know that you can’t do without fertilizer and that a special shadow lawn can help.
Destroying moss Tip 1: Scarifying
The fastest mechanical removal of moss surfaces is probably scarifying. You will be amazed at the masses of moss that appear there and are collected using rakes. With the remains of the compost. This rots quickly and results in great humus soil.
Eliminating moss Tip 2: Sanding
If you want to permanently remove moss from your lawn, you need a long-term strategy so that you don’t fight again every year. One possibility is for solid, loamy and water-impermeable soils to sand the area annually. The sand seeps into the ground more and more through rain and irrigation and finally loosens it up. The water can drain off better and gives moss infestation a much worse basis.
Fighting moss Tip 3: fertilizer with moss displacer
If you want to unpack the chemical mace, fertilize right at the beginning of spring with a combination of lawn fertilizer and moss killer. Moss areas turn brown so quickly, they die and give way to the sprouting lawn.
Moss removal Tip 4: Only use high-quality grass seeds
Cheap lawn seeds from the hardware store do most of the work in the long term, because you can bring the devil into the garden. Many cheap mixes contain cheap and not specially cultivated grasses, which only grow upwards, but not in the width. A weed paradise.
Moss control Tip 5: pH optimization
Lawn grows best on soil with a pH of 5-6. Everything below is too acidic and promotes moss infestation. First determine the pH of the soil and then apply lime to increase the pH. Scattering too much lime is not good either, as the value will then become too high / too alkaline. Lime is washed out more and more over the years by rain.